A birder’s guide to exploring Indianapolis

On Eagle Creek Park's Coffer Dam, Whitney scans a mudflat with her spotting scope in search of a Franklin's Gull. 𝘑𝘰𝘯𝘢𝘵𝘩𝘢𝘯 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳

As someone who grew up on the Chesapeake Bay, I was initially perplexed by the allure of living in and around cornfields. For years, Jonathan argued that his home state of Indiana provided more excitement. “There’s more than corn in Indiana,” he’d jokingly say. Later in our relationship, I discovered that some marketing genius coined this phrase for television commercials about a lakeside resort in White County, Indiana.

As we dated, I got a firsthand taste of what central Indiana had to offer and discovered it was highly undervalued. We wanted to plant roots when it came time to leave Hong Kong (read this post to learn more about that blip in our lives). We had a “unicorn wishlist” for our future home. The idea was to live a slower, more affordable lifestyle with plenty of outdoor space without dealing with a congested urban area. Indiana, surprisingly, checked all of the boxes. We’ve been here for six years and haven’t left.

Indiana has a vast array of birding opportunities that span the entire state. Check out the Indiana Birding Trail. That being said, if you live in Indianapolis (the second largest city in the Midwest) as we do, you don’t have to travel far to find good birding. It also has a well-deserved reputation as a foodie haven. So, if you have three days to spend in Indianapolis and a rental car, follow this itinerary for the most satisfying birding spots — and some places to visit before and after for good vittles and vibes.

As an aside, the destinations I’ve chosen are ones I visit all year, regardless of what’s being seen and reported. Birds are everywhere; you just have to use a creative problem-solving mindset to find them based on their habitat preferences, migration schedules, et cetera.

Friday

1) 8 a.m. A leisurely stroll through a wooded bottomland.

For many reasons, Starkey Nature Park is my all-time favorite patch. It’s located on Indy’s northwest side, just over the Marion County line in Zionsville. This rustic 80-acre park is nestled within a suburban neighborhood, but don't let that fool you; it’s a great place to spot migrant and resident birds. Hillside and bottom meadows under the power-line easement, seven walking trails, and riparian habitat along a creek are among the park's many features. A 100-foot railroad bridge turned rail trail connects the park’s northern end to the town’s newest recreational destination, Overley-Worman Park. Starkey Park is strictly for nature appreciation, so it’s quieter and less frequented.

Overall, Starkey Park is an excellent place for flycatchers, warblers, and sparrows. It’s where I go to find Winter Wren, and it’s where many anglers go to catch Smallmouth and White Bass. I often skip the bigger, more popular birding hotspots in the spring and fall to enjoy migration without anyone else around. Some of my best discoveries to date were in the settling ponds of the Zionsville Wastewater Treatment Plant. These settling ponds are fenced in and located on the northwest edge of the park's boundaries. During the coldest winter months, one of the ponds has a bubbler. You can get some good views of ducks there, including the occasional Canvasback, Redhead, and Lesser Scaup.

An autumn view of the 100-Foot Bridge in Starkey Nature Park. 𝘞𝘩𝘪𝘵𝘯𝘦𝘺 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳

You can bird Starkey Park in an hour, but expect to spend two to three hours during peak migration, especially given the trails’ mostly north-south distribution. It’s a fun place to wander if you don’t have a specific birding goal in mind; enjoy the process of discovery. The only drawback to the park is that the trails are not accessible due to the steep stairs and single-track rustic and rooty trails.

📍 STARKEY NATURE PARK | 667 Sugarbush Dr., Zionsville | eBird Hotspot | Trail Map | AllTrails Guide

2) 11:30 a.m. The best tacos in Indianapolis.

Saraga, an international grocery store, houses this family-owned Mexican restaurant. Taqueria Don Luis is conveniently located near Eagle Creek Park, making it an excellent lunch stop before your afternoon birding. Don Luis serves the most delicious authentic Mexican cuisine! The food is made to order with fresh ingredients. Because it is a small family business, your order may take some time to prepare, but it is well worth the wait. (There is only indoor seating unless you order takeout.) If tacos don’t sound exciting, this corridor is packed with international cuisine and global markets.

📍 TAQUERIA DON LUIS | 3605 Commercial Dr., Indianapolis | Website

Option #2: Check out Georgetown Natural Foods Market, which is located in the same corridor as Taqueria Don Luis, for a quick grab-and-go option. The deli section of this small grocery store sells a variety of sandwiches, fresh juices and smoothies, and pre-packaged sides that will your appetite with healthy alternatives.

3) 1 p.m. A vast stopover oasis for all types of birds.

Eagle Creek Park is one of the largest city parks in the country, with over 1,400 acres of water and 3,900 acres of forest. It is an important stopover site for migrating birds, with over 280 total species documented in the park. Because there is a lot of ground to cover, you’ll likely choose trails and habitats based on the time of year and the species you're looking for. In September, the water levels begin to recede, revealing mudflats that attract migrating shorebirds and gulls. You might find something interesting while birding with a spotting scope in the fall from the Coffer Dam (east looking west) or Scott Starling Sanctuary (west looking east). Birding by kayak can provide better views and photography opportunities if you're brave enough to bring a camera onboard.

Jonathan takes a selfie while birding by kayak on Eagle Creek Reservoir. 𝘑𝘰𝘯𝘢𝘵𝘩𝘢𝘯 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳

The park has two entrances: one on the south end (7840 W. 56th St.) and one on the north end at 71st Street (6901-7029 Eagle Creek Pkwy.). Keep in mind that the reservoir south of the 56th Street causeway is a good area for rafting waterfowl in late fall and winter. It’s possible to bird the reservoir from several public access points on the east side, including Rick's Cafe Boatyard and Hobie Beach, though it's a little challenging. A scope is always necessary in this scenario.

There is much to explore in Eagle Creek Park, including the park’s western side, which is unmapped due to the ongoing trail expansion. If you bird the west side, enjoy the exploratory adventure and go with the flow. Conversely, you can use the Explore feature in the eBird Mobile app for a specific target species. It’s a great way to figure out where your targets hang out in the park.

Going on your own, you can get helpful real-time sightings inside Eagle Creek Park’s boundaries by joining the new ECP Rare & Uncommon Bird Sightings chat group on Telegram. Simply download the app and join the group with this link.

If birding with others is more your style, or if you’ve never been to Eagle Creek Park, you might consider joining the Sunday morning birders who meet at the Ornithology Center at 9 a.m. These walks are led by local birders who are knowledgeable about the park’s offerings. Anyone is welcome to join, and the group birds together somewhere new in the park each week based on what is being seen.

📍 EAGLE CREEK PARK | 7840 W. 56th St., Indianapolis | eBird Hotspots | Trail Maps | AllTrails Guide

4) 6 p.m. A hearty plant-based meal in the Near Eastside.

10th Street Diner serves hugely satisfying vegan takes on deli-style meals, making it a great place to refuel and reflect on your birding adventures. The brick facade and chill vibes provide a casual backdrop for munching, submitting your eBird checklist(s), and looking through your camera’s photos. Depending on your mood and hunger level, choose from the menu's entrees, sandwiches, soups, sides, and salads. Even if plant-based eating isn’t your thing, there’s a reason this restaurant has 551 Google reviews and 4.7 stars. You’ll feel satisfied and happy when you leave, and you'll almost certainly want to return the next morning to try one of their brunch specials.

📍 10TH STREET DINER | 3301 E. 10th St., Indianapolis | Website

Option #2: Rick's Cafe Boatyard, located on the Eagle Creek Reservoir, is one of the few restaurants with a waterfront ambiance. The food (steak and seafood) is pricey, and the waitlist can be long. I recommend enjoying a pint or glass of wine and an appetizer on the outside patio. If you bring a scope, don't forget to scan the reservoir from the parking lot. Terns, scoters, and gulls can be seen, and Swallow-tailed Kite and Magnificent Frigatebird have visited in the past.

Saturday

Marlon Blackwell designed the Ruth Lilly Visitor Pavilion at 100 Acres. A collaboration with Newfields and Lights Out Indy resulted in the modification of its bird-friendly glass. 𝘞𝘩𝘪𝘵𝘯𝘦𝘺 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳

5) 8 a.m. Artsy nature exploration.

The Virginia B. Fairbanks Art and Nature Park, colloquially known as “the 100 Acres,” is located directly across from the Indianapolis Museum of Art and its grounds (now known as Newfields — lots of renaming has occurred in recent years). The park combines site-specific and interactive artworks, a native pollinator prairie, floodplain woodlands, and a 1.5-mile loop around a 35-acre lake. The property as a whole connects the White River and the Central Canal, creating a wildlife and contemporary art haven with recreational and conservation goals. It’s an ideal spot for a whimsical walk searching for birds, butterflies, insects, bugs, and native plants. In what other urban park can you go birding in a public intervention by Alfredo Jaar, a world-renowned Chilean artist?

The 100 Acres park, like the others on this list, is open from dawn to dusk. It’s completely free and open to the public unlike the grounds at Newfields. To get there, go to the parking lot at 1850 W. 38th Street, just west of the main Newfields entrance. The “Funky Bones” sculpture is a popular attraction since it was featured in the 2014 film “The Fault in Our Star.” In my opinion, the Visitors Pavilion is a must-see, complete with bird-friendly glass, a Wild Birds Unlimited bird-feeding platform (view the live cam), comfortable indoor seating, a workspace, and restrooms.

📍 VIRGINIA B. FAIRBANKS ART & NATURE PARK | 1850 W. 38th St., Indianapolis | eBird Hotspot | Trail Map | AllTrails Guide

6) 1 p.m. An E.S.B. in a cozy pub snug.

After birding the 100 Acres, visit the Broad Ripple neighborhood for a late lunch at Indiana’s first and longest-operating brewery. The Broad Ripple Brewpub, located just off the Monon Trail, is the closest thing to an authentic English pub in Indianapolis. It was founded in 1990 by John, an Englishman, and Nancy, a Master Gardener and past president of the Indiana Native Plant and Wildlife Society (surely, she appreciates birds, too?). I’m not sure why there are so many vegetarian and vegan options on the menu, but I’m attributing it to Nancy, whether it’s true or not.

The brewpub offers healthy and traditional pub fare. There are numerous meat alternatives along with scotch eggs, a popular beer cheese crock starter, a ploughman’s platter, and their rotating brews, including the extra special bitter cask ale. The beer and daily specials change seasonally. My meals of choice are the seitan Rueben and the vegan B.L.T. The brewpub has a lot of outside seating, though you’ll miss out on the detailed woodwork of the interior. Jonathan and I usually opt for the “pub snug,” a small room off the side of the bar with only a few tables and a fireplace.

📍 BROAD RIPPLE BREWPUB | 842 E. 65th St., Indianapolis | Website

At the Broad Ripple Brewpub, an empty view of the cozy pub snug room decorated for the holidays. 𝘞𝘩𝘪𝘵𝘯𝘦𝘺 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳

7) 3 p.m. An educational urban wetland.

If you’re not yet ready for a nap, the Nina Mason Pulliam EcoLab should be your next stop after lunch. Marian University’s 75-acre natural area is an urban birding gem. The property is “a highly biodiverse area with rare wetland habitats and threatened animal species all within a few miles of downtown Indianapolis,” according to the EcoLab’s website. Keep an eye out for other wildlife such as beavers, turtles, and amphibians while walking the trails in search of birds. There are also educational signs scattered throughout that provide interesting tidbits about Indiana's native vegetation and habitats.

The EcoLab is a part of the university’s academic curriculum and the site of several research projects. However, community members are welcome to participate in their stewardship activities and seasonal public programs. They also host bird walks every Wednesday at 8 a.m., contributing to the property’s species count reaching nearly 200 birds.

📍 NINA MASON PULLIAM ECOLAB | 3200 Cold Spring Rd., Indianapolis | eBird Hotspot | Trail Map | AllTrails Guide

8) 6:30 p.m. Top-notch pizza.

Pizza is a highly subjective food. Even though everyone enjoys it, everybody has a different opinion on what makes a great pie in terms of crust, sauce, and toppings. In my opinion, King Dough serves the most mouthwatering, unpretentious pizza in Indianapolis. The heart of their business is “hand-crafted pizza” and “fresh, in-house, daily” ingredients. Plus, even the atmosphere is eclectic, you’ll see all types of people dining there. The patio is spacious and chill, and the wine list includes low-ABV piquettes and sparkling pét-nats. Sip a craft cocktail while waiting for a hand-tossed pizza to come out of the oven and enjoy the tunes playing over the speakers. Try the Hive Mind for an out-of-this-world vegan pizza experience.

📍 KING DOUGH | 452 N. Highland Ave., Indianapolis | Website

9) 8:30 p.m. Local brews sampler.

Feeling adventurous and curious about our local brews? Sample different local taps at Metazoa Brewing Co. (5 percent of the profits are donated to animal and wildlife organizations), Ash and Elm Cider Co., Guggman Haus Brewing Co., or Top Out Café at North Mass Boulder. All of these establishments are located in the heart of downtown, giving you a taste of the city’s evening glow and nightlife.

Sunday

10) 7 a.m. Latte and bialy brekky.

Imagine you're on your way to the ski slopes instead of your birding destination when you wake up on Sunday morning. This image will get you in the mood for your visit to Chalet, a coffee shop by day and wine bar by night located in a historic fire station. In the morning, the uber-friendly staff serves locally roasted coffee, caffeine-free options, and in-house baked goods, such as coffee cake, croissants, and bialies. It transitions to small-batch natural and organic wines, beers, charcuterie, and raclette on Tuesday through Sunday. Vegan and vegetarian folx will discover plenty of options, ranging from oat milk to a tasty cashew “cheese” spread.

📍 CHALET | 5555 N. Illinois St., Indianapolis | Website

11) 8 a.m. A recreational haven in the heart of the city.

A peek through spruce trees by the Holliday Park Nature Center. 𝘞𝘩𝘪𝘵𝘯𝘦𝘺 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳

Holliday Park is one of the city’s oldest parks with a rich history tied to its former property owners. Since moving from Zionsville to the I-465 beltway, it has become my new local patch. I first went there in April, when various spring ephemerals were blooming. I was utterly blown away by the plants and hardscaping. The trees are mature beeches, maples, sycamores, and tulip poplars, with some pawpaws growing in the understory. The tall canopy makes identifying migrating warblers a fun challenge.

The 95-acre park includes a nature center, playground, picnic area, ruins from a New York City building, and ravines leading down to the White River. You can cover 3.5 miles or less by following the trails through the woods or concentrate your birding on the open area surrounding the ruins and parking lots. If you don’t feel like walking down to the river, there are prairie habitats and native wildflower gardens to explore. In the warmer, sunnier months, Holliday Park can get crowded. Something else to be mindful of is the summer concert series Rock the Ruins, hosted by the park foundation as a fundraiser. This location is best for early morning birding, especially between June and August.

📍 HOLLIDAY PARK | 6363 Spring Mill Rd., Indianapolis | eBird Hotspot | Trail Map | AllTrails Guide

12) 11:30 a.m. Ramen rejuvenation.

Ramen Ray, an exceptional ramen restaurant, serves my favorite post-birding meal, especially in cold weather. Jun and Yoko Kuramoto opened it in 2016 after moving to the United States and missing their native dish. The Kuramotos import the curvy noodles directly from Hokkaido, Japan. But the Sapporo-style ramen is made to order and served in your choice of rich broth: pork, soy, or miso. Whether you go meat or vegetarian, all the toppings suit the dish, and you can add extras. A warm soft-boiled egg is obligatory unless you don’t eat eggs. Finish with a Japanese drink or fill a cup from their self-service water station.

When we visited Japan in 2015, our fly fishing guide told us that it was impolite not to slurp your ramen. Slurping audibly is a sign of enjoyment! Don’t skimp on the slurps.

📍 RAMEN RAY | 5628 E 71st St., Indianapolis | Website

Ramen Ray’s bar is stacked with Japanese crates. 𝘞𝘩𝘪𝘵𝘯𝘦𝘺 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳

Urban birding hotspots

If your lodging is centrally located downtown, there are a handful of places to visit to get a taste of urban birding. For example, check the shrubs and ornamental trees of the State Capital grounds and Indiana War Memorial Plaza, which attract warblers and sparrows in the spring and fall. One of the city’s two nesting pairs of Peregrine Falcons, which have a nest box on Market Tower, can be found on top of or near the Soldiers and Sailors Monument on occasion. You can also bird the White River State Park walkways that wrap around the Indianapolis Zoo and the IUPUI campus. Finally, combine Military Park and the Central Canal Walk to see what else you can find.