Our first visit to the Lower Rio Grande Valley
Pyrrhuloxia, Falcon State Park, Texas. 6 January 2021. ππ°π―π’π΅π©π’π― π π°π¦π³π¨π¦π³
Sometimes we scratch the itch of rarity chases, especially if travel time is limited to an hour roundtrip. But most of the time, we enjoy the alternatives such as patch, five-mile radius and green birding.
For us, birding is about placeβbeing aware of which species are nearby and understanding their migration cycles. Place is also relevant to travel birding: the destinations you choose depend on the birds you want to see. Add to the mix some specialty species β birds of limited range or exclusive to a particular region β and you have a focused, local plan.
That's why, at the beginning of January, we deliberately skipped chasing a mega-rarity on a road trip to South Texas. Instead, we made memories with 55 lifers, or birds we've never seen before as birders.
Resisting temptation
We were drawn to the Lower Rio Grande Valley to see a number of specialties, from the colorful (Green Jay) to the unique (Pyrrhuloxia) to the strange (Plain Chachalaca) to the elegant (White-tailed Hawk). But the most frequently asked question we received when we got home was, "Did you get the Spotted Rail?"
A Spotted Rail was discovered last December in Choke Canyon State Park and, as far as I know, it continued until late January 2021. To date, this is only the fourth Spotted Rail recorded north of the U.S.-Mexico border. It was such a big deal that a lot of birders went to see this timid, elusive, neotropical marsh chicken.
We, on the other hand, deliberately skipped chasing the Spotted Railβand we're not sorry. We saw some other rarities in its place, like Ruddy Ground-Dove, Tropical Parula and Crimson-collared Grosbeak, and we found a Warbling Vireo.
Ruddy Ground-Dove, Bentsen-Rio Grande State Park, Texas. 4 January 2021. ππ°π―π’π΅π©π’π― π π°π¦π³π¨π¦π³
Texas is huge. While the temptation was strong, it made no logistical sense, and we planned to see (and eat) as many South Texas specialties using Harlingen as our base camp. Over the course of five days, it was incredible birding. Below are the highlights, broken down as four alternative experiences with some food pairings.
Burrowing Owl, San Patricio County
On the second day of our drive from Arkansas to Harlingen, Texas, we stopped at what seemed to be a reliable location for Burrowing Owls an hour and a half before sunset. Since this would be a lifer for both of us, it was a no-brainer and a welcome break from the monotony of driving.
When we got to the spot, we drove the country roads slowly around a series of wind turbines just north of Corpus Christi. Eventually, I noticed a yellow eye looking out at us from a large concrete culvert near the road. I found one.
Burrowing Owl, San Patricio County, Texas. 2 January 2021. ππ°π―π’π΅π©π’π― π π°π¦π³π¨π¦π³
This little long-legged burrower was very shy. Moving the car forward a foot to get a better viewing angle made it fly further out. It was remarkably camouflaged, and we needed the scope to relocate it. Finding and observing a Burrowing Owl in an open agricultural fieldβnot at all something you'd expect for an owlβis a really special experience.
Bites: If you're heading south via Texarkana, find an Airbnb or Vrbo in Magnolia, Arkansas, and check out Hachi Hachi. Don't underestimate the fact that it's a food trailer; their Japanese hibachi is so tasty.
The Hachi Hachi food trailer in Magnolia, Arkansas. ππ°π―π’π΅π©π’π― π π°π¦π³π¨π¦π³
Lesser Nighthawk, Estero Llano Grande State Park
Our first day of birding was spent exclusively at Estero Llano Grande State Park. We covered most of its 230 acres of land and were blown away by the diversity of species. The birding was off the hook. I thought seeing a Cinnamon Teal was the highlight of my day until a Scissor-tailed Flycatcher flew into the canopy of a fig tree... where an Elegant Trogon was hiding.
On my way to the bathroom, a White-tailed Kite soared by. We had close-ups of Buff-bellied and Black-chinned Hummingbirds. We watched a Green Kingfisher at Grebe Marsh. We came across a Common Pauraque snoozing at an old campsite. It was unreal.
I had hoped to see two Lesser Nighthawks that were reported the day before. These birds winter in southern South America, so it's unusual to see them here in January. One appeared around 6 p.m., as the sky turned a dusky orange, then the other. I noticed the subtle differences in size and field marks as we watched the pair catch bugs over our heads. I had the biggest smile on my face that night.
Waiting for Lesser Nighthawks to appear. ππ©πͺπ΅π―π¦πΊ π π°π¦π³π¨π¦π³
Lesser Nighthawk, Estero Llano Grande State Park. ππ°π―π’π΅π©π’π― π π°π¦π³π¨π¦π³
Nana's Taqueria's patio is full of color and delight. ππ©πͺπ΅π―π¦πΊ π π°π¦π³π¨π¦π³
Bites: In the middle of the afternoon, we took a break to eat at Nana's Taqueria, just outside the park. The margaritas and lonches (basically, a bready variation of tacos) hit the spot, and the outdoor ambience was great, too.
Green Parakeets, N. 10th St. and W. Trenton Rd.
Parrots staging to roost is a wild spectacle. Combine them with Whataburger, a busy suburban intersection, and Great-tailed Grackles in the thousands interspersed with Bronzed Cowbirds, and you have a stimulating experience for all five of your senses.
Green Parakeets are found from Mexico to northern Central America. You can also find them in South Texas, from Laredo to South Padres Island. These now resident populations are "countable" if you are legitimately interested in listing or are doing a big year in the American Birding Association area, the official boundaries for competitive birding in North America.
That wasn't really a factor in our decision to visit a roost in McAllen. We just wanted to see wild Green Parakeets since we were birding around Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley State Park. Timing was important as hearing and seeing them fly in was the goal.
Green Parakeets queuing for the H-E-B? ππ°π―π’π΅π©π’π― π π°π¦π³π¨π¦π³
When they arrived, it was loud and boisterous. The excitement was high, probably due in part to the crescendo of chattering grackles lining the power lines everywhere. Plus, there was one random Monk Parakeet (lifer) and a Rose-ringed Parakeet (escapee).
There were a few green-colored parakeets with red on their heads that we left off our checklists because we couldnβt confidently identify them and later discovered from Mary Gustafsonβs LRGV Birding Hotline β a very helpful blog, by the way β that they were probably Mitred Parakeets. However, the presence of this species in the area is not well documented on eBird and the origin is unknown.
Bites: The best tamales I've ever eaten were at Delia's Specializing in Tamales in McAllen. It's quick to grab-and-go with 18 varieties of tamales. Delia's is must.
Hook-billed Kite, SalineΓ±o Wildlife Preserve
Hook-billed Kite was the most unexpected sighting on the trip, and it was pure luck. They are present in low numbers in South Texas, and mainly along the Rio. You've got to go to very specific locations to find one because they are specialists in habitat and diet, preferring riparian corridors.
SalineΓ±o Wildlife Preserve meets both criteria. We were there that morning for a chance at Zone-tailed Hawk, Barn Owl and Morelet's Seedeater. We saw a Morelet's on our second visit later that day in a sweet acacia tree. No Barn Owl or Zone-tailed Hawk. Not at all did we think we'd see a Hook-billed Kite.
The entrance to SalineΓ±o Wildlife Preserve outside of Roma, Texas. ππ©πͺπ΅π―π¦πΊ π π°π¦π³π¨π¦π³
A super-cropped shot of the Hook-billed Kite. ππ°π―π’π΅π©π’π― π π°π¦π³π¨π¦π³
Whitney listening to birds with her entire being. ππ³πͺπ΄π΅πͺπ―π’ ππ’π¬πͺπ―π΄
An Audubon's Oriole feeding from a bucket at DeWind's Yard. ππ°π―π’π΅π©π’π― π π°π¦π³π¨π¦π³
Checking out the boat ramp β which is strangely only 300 feet away from Mexico without any sight of the ugly border wall β led to two Gray Hawks and a surprise Hook-billed Kite, one right after the other. I was astonished.
The kite was distant overhead, flying southwest with an unusual flight style for a raptor. Jonathan's quick camera snaps showed a heavy, hooked bill, a banded tail, and awkwardly shaped wings. Perhaps the kite was leaving its roost to resume its daily routine of snacking on escargot. It was breakfast time, after all.
Technically, we could have logged this bird in both the U.S. and Mexico since we saw it cross the border. Who's counting, though? Besides, it'll be more meaningful to log another Hook-billed Kite on a future trip to Mexico someday.
Bites: Our last recommendation is Gorditas DoΓ±a Tota in Harlingen. It's the fillings that make these little cornmeal pockets so tasty. Give the potatoes, poblano peppers, eggs, or cactus a try for a vegetarian meal.
Gorditas carry-out on the patio of our Vrbo rental. ππ©πͺπ΅π―π¦πΊ π π°π¦π³π¨π¦π³
Lastly, we thoughtfully did this road trip in a COVID-safe way with another married couple in our birding bubble, Kristina and Logan Lakins. Their four extra sharp eyes, company and competitive Nintendo Switch Wingspan gaming made the trip super enjoyable. 10/10 we would do it all over again.
Be smart and stay safe this year while enjoying the birds! ππ°π―π’π΅π©π’π― π π°π¦π³π¨π¦π³
Authorβs note: This article was written before the deadly winter storm hit the Southern U.S., and millions of Texans were without electricity and drinking water. If you havenβt already donated to relief efforts, the New York Times has outlined a number of ways that you can help.