Scenes from Arizona's lowlands and ‘Sky Islands’
Behind the Sonoran Desert vegetation, a darkening blue sky. 𝘞𝘩𝘪𝘵𝘯𝘦𝘺 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳
In August, southeastern Arizona is known for having some of the best birding in the country. At the end of the breeding season and in the middle of the monsoon season, a second spring brings a slew of migrating species to the area. The hummingbirds are plentiful, the specialties are diverse, the scenery is breathtaking, and the weather is... doable. In addition, the close proximity to the U.S.-Mexico border often reveals a few exciting rarities. It's a birder’s paradise, but you don’t need a passport to visit.
Over a few beers, Jonathan and I planned our first trip to the area with our birding friends Kristina and Logan. The original idea called for a trip to Arizona in May 2022. "How about overlapping a short birdcation with the 2021 Southeast Arizona Birding Festival?" After a brief pause to check our calendars, we all agreed, "Let's do it!" So we booked our flights, a Vrbo in Tanque Verde, and a rental car.
Three and a half days in Arizona provided an excellent introduction. The trip flew by, and yet we made time to stop and enjoy the sights and experiences, as well as our Vrbo's pool. We learned a lot about birding in the area—where to go, which species live at low and high elevations, what habitats they prefer, and where to eat along the way. There are destinations (and hikes) we wish we could have experienced, but we can't wait to return and see more of what southeastern Arizona has to offer, including the Chiricahua Mountains, Portal, Patagonia, and other places.
While we love sharing details, this post will be a photo essay of the highlights and scenery, which is a departure from our usual format. Some SE Arizona video footage can be found on Instagram. Leave a comment if you have any tips or places to recommend for our next Arizona adventures.
We found our lifer Mexican Jays at this pull-off on our way up Mt. Lemmon. 𝘞𝘩𝘪𝘵𝘯𝘦𝘺 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳
Rose Canyon campground, located along a creek, was the most active place to stop on the way up Mt. Lemmon. We went back twice and saw Red-faced Warbler, Virginia's Warbler, Grace's Warbler, Greater Pewee, Hutton's Vireo, and Hepatic Tanager. A Hermit Warbler, which was only present for a few seconds, was also spotted by one of the four of us.
Mother Nature provided a calm water feature in Molino Basin on Mt. Lemmon. 𝘞𝘩𝘪𝘵𝘯𝘦𝘺 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳
A creek runs through the Molino Basin campground, where we saw Canyon Towhees, Lazuli Buntings, and a Hooded Oriole among the scenic savannah habitat and rocky hills. At a lower elevation, it was dry and hot in the full sun. Walking through where the creek crossed the road to look for tadpoles was a welcome relief from the heat.
Both a male and female Lucifer's Hummingbird drank from the feeders at Ash Canyon Bird Sanctuary. 𝘑𝘰𝘯𝘢𝘵𝘩𝘢𝘯 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳
It may seem strange to sit in someone else’s garden and observe their abundance of bird feeders, but Ash Canyon Bird Sanctuary is unique. Mary Jo Ballator founded the sanctuary in 2002, and her legacy lives on through volunteers who keep it running today and donations from visiting birders. It's one of the best places on the planet to observe hummingbirds resting, drinking, and chattering.
The feeders at Ash Canyon Bird Sanctuary are plentiful and numbered, allowing you to call species out as you see them. 𝘞𝘩𝘪𝘵𝘯𝘦𝘺 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳
The view on the way into the controlled access site at Beatty's Guest Ranch, where you can sit on a small bleacher and watch hummingbirds for $5 per person. 𝘞𝘩𝘪𝘵𝘯𝘦𝘺 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳
Beatty's Guest Ranch bills itself as "America's premier hummingbird viewing destination nestled in the Huachuca Mountains." It did not disappoint, allowing us to see a White-eared Hummingbird, a resident of Mexico and Central America that occasionally visits southern Arizona. It was shy, erratic, and unwilling to share airspace with other hummingbird species.
It was also exciting to see a Painted Redstart foraging. These birds flush and catch insects in an unusual way that involves fanning their tails and flashing their wings. In the parking lot, we noticed two redstarts working their way up, down, and sideways on the tree trunks. Bridled Titmice were also present and highly active.
Beatty's is rustic and reminiscent of some of Hong Kong's New Territories scenery. 𝘞𝘩𝘪𝘵𝘯𝘦𝘺 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳
There is always time to document the experience. 𝘑𝘰𝘯𝘢𝘵𝘩𝘢𝘯 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳
Rivoli's Hummingbird is the largest hummingbird species in North America. IRL, they are real megachonkers. 𝘑𝘰𝘯𝘢𝘵𝘩𝘢𝘯 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳
The flora and fauna of southeastern Arizona are as diverse as its habitats. We saw Ocotillo, Rock Squirrel, Abert's Squirrel, Cliff Chipmunk, Arizona Poppies, Velvetpod Mimosa, White-lined Sphinx, and the bandit-like White-nosed Coati while looking for birds.
Looking for a Five-striped Sparrow on this hillside is like looking for a needle in a haystack, especially when lookalike Black-throated Sparrows are present. 𝘞𝘩𝘪𝘵𝘯𝘦𝘺 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳
Jonathan discovered Montosa Canyon the night before by conducting some quick eBird research. We were hoping to see a Five-striped Sparrow rather than just hear one, and other birders' sightings at this location looked promising. When we got to the Jeep trail, we heard one singing and patiently scanned the hillside with our binoculars to find its perch.
Twice a day, a family of Gambel's Quail visited our Vrbo rental. This sighting happened just before Saturday’s storm started. 𝘑𝘰𝘯𝘢𝘵𝘩𝘢𝘯 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳
Our Vrbo’s dirt road. “A FLASH FLOOD WARNING is in effect for this area until 6:00 PM MST. This is a dangerous and life-threatening situation.” 𝘞𝘩𝘪𝘵𝘯𝘦𝘺 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳
And the Agua Caliente wash. “Do not attempt to travel unless you are fleeing an area subject to flooding or under an evacuation order.” 𝘞𝘩𝘪𝘵𝘯𝘦𝘺 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳
Despite the fact that monsoon season made everything green and lush, it had an impact on our birding plans. We attempted a nocturnal excursion in Saguaro National Park on Friday but were forced to cancel due to impending weather. We walked down the dirt road from our Vrbo on Saturday evening, after heavy rain and an emergency alert, to see if we could still make it out before sunset. Our plans were nearly derailed by the overflowing Agua Caliente wash, but a local directed us out via a zigzagged route.
Who says rainbows don't exist in the desert? 𝘞𝘩𝘪𝘵𝘯𝘦𝘺 𝘠𝘰𝘦𝘳𝘨𝘦𝘳